Friday, April 27, 2012

New Life Goal: Move To Lisbon


(The view from our hostel window)

Lisbon was great: well worth the - now let me add this up real quick - 26 hours or so of travel time that it took to get there and back.  The flights themselves were short and, aside from the one flight which found both of sitting in separate middle seats, pleasant.  The layovers, though... Well.  We were stuck in Frankfurt for about 10 hours on the way there, and about 6 hours on the way back.  Boring.  Mind numbingly, sit in an airport under flourescent lights in an uncomfortable chair boring.  We did take a short trip into the city center, but that turned out to be shutting down at about 11pm, so we didn't have much to do other than nap in the terminal, the perpetually lit terminal.  For that reason, no pictures of Frankfurt are to appear in this post.

Onward, Westward, and upward.

(Placa do Comercio)

(Consulting the Oracles)


Lisbon rules.  It's cheap (though it is on the Euro, so we suffered immensely when changing money), easy to navigate, and combines pretty much every aspect of a great European city.  It's got the open paved plazas of Spain (and also, I imagine though can't confirm, Italy), the tree lined parks and boulevards of Paris, the mass public transit of London, the historic system of trams akin to Prague or Budapest, and hilly, narrow, tree lined streets with beautifully tiled buildings to boot.


(One of the many funicular trams or "elevators")


 (Dad:  The man belonging to those feet was about average height.  Let's assume that he wears a size ten shoe.  What gauge tram track do you suppose they were using?)

(A view from St. George's castle, which was actually built by Moors and then sacked [twice] by Christians.)



People are friendly.  So friendly, in fact, they're all willing to share their hash and coke with you!  Some areas seem a bit touristy, but on the whole it seems like a very lived in kind of city.

(Another elevator.  The hills are pretty steep.)

(Another shot from St. George's castle.)





Maybe this contradicts the 'lived-in' feel of the place, but it's also got a huge World Expo park east of town, complete with 'modern' architecture and an aquarium.

(Modern)

 (Vasco!  The cartoon scuba diving version of Vasco De Gama.)





(This is actually in another part of town.  Behind this weirdo is Belem Tower.  It was built in the 1500s to guard the river.  According what I've read, it sat closer to the middle of the river until 1755 when a massive earthquake changed the direction of the river.  Unfortunately it, like most other historical and cultural sights in Lisbon, was closed on Monday!)
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Matt's Definitive Guide to Lisbon
Drink tons of espresso standing up, preferably while inhaling little custard pastries (Pastel de Nata).
Eat pork and clams.
Drink a lot of wine.
Eat a lot of prosciutto.
Ride rickety funiculars.
Watch skate punks.
Hear no Fado.
Buy no hash.
Drink more espresso.  Eat more pastries.  Don't limit yourself to the little custard ones though.
Hatch plans to return.




Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Kabak Valley


After a fun/busy/fulfilling/soggy/sunny trip from the parents (pictures of which I'm sure you've all seen many of), I took off to Antalya to meet up wıth Kate and head down to Kabak Valley.



We took a 3 hour bus from Antalya to Fethiye, then hung around the bus station for a bit to wait for our dolmuş out to the top of the valley.

 (The Bus)

 (The Rest Stop and Olde Ladies)

 (The Far-Scarier-Than-It-Looks Dolmuş Ride)


Kabak Valley is part of a natural preserve that prohibits permanent structures from being built.  Unfortunately (depending on how you look at it) people have built complex camps into the hill side and all along the valley floor, turning Kabak Valley into a major stop for hikers and yogis.  Being the beginning of the camping season, we pretty much had our camp, Shanti Garden, and consequently the beach, to ourselves.

 (We stayed in one of the huts on the righthand side)

(We read a lot, usually, but not always, right by the beach)

(We were actually there!  Really!)

It was really nice to be able to take a vacation where the objective is to relax.  It's a strange feeling:  traveling and then not stalking around a city with a map and a camera from one sight to the next.  I guess this is what normal people do when they go on a vacation - lay on the beach and read for hours - but I've always felt like I had too much to see while I've been in Europe.

Wow... reading that last paragraph back, it sounds pretty terrible.  All traveling is great, and I'm lucky to be doing it.  This trip ruled just as much as any other.  I shouldn't cast seeing the great monuments of the world as a chore.  Kabak Valley is a great monument in and of itself.  The architecture is just a little bit less refined than some others.

 Anyway, we got to do some hiking along the Lycian Way as well.  The camera stopped working halfway through the hike, so I don't have too many pictures of it.  We did some bouldering in the rain, then decided to stick to the trail for a bit.

 (Extreme)

 (Trail Markers)


Saturday, April 7, 2012

Galata Tower and The First Bike Ride of the Season

 (Galata Tower, about a 10 minute walk from my apartment)

(From Galata Tower, looking over into Sultanahmet)

I finally made it to the top of Galata Tower, that iconic tower in all of the pictures of Beyoglu.  It was one of the first nice days of the season, so it was super packed.  Like, a line into the spiral staircase packed.  Beautiful building that it is, it also contains a restaurant, cafe, and nightclub (!).  Parents, we will not be going to the nightclub there.  Sorry.

It was also nice enough out this weekend to break out the bicycle for the first time.  This is more or less the route I took, maybe a little bit further down towards Pendik... and I also started from Goztepe rather than Kadikoy.  Either way, you get the idea.  It was a beautiful ride.

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Okay.  Well, apparently that doesn't work.  Main idea - I rode along the coast of the Marmara, put in about 30km or so, and I'm terribly out of shape.


 (It lives!)